- We checked out XOPP, the Darling Square offshoot of Sydney institution Golden Century.
- Dig into our must-order picks from XOPP’s daily yum cha.
- From XO pippies to lobster, here’s what’s worth ordering.
There’s no shortage of exceptional Cantonese eateries in Haymarket, home to Sydney’s vibrant Chinatown, but XOPP by Golden Century always feels that extra bit special.
Perhaps it’s those legendary XO pippies (where the restaurant gets its namesake), or perhaps it’s that sense of family tradition and knowledge that threads through all of Golden Century’s locations.
Either way, we headed in to indulge in their stacked yum cha service (yes, we’re still full), and to try to get to the bottom of what makes XOPP tick.
The story of Golden Century
Before we run you through the must-order dishes of the yum cha menu, we can’t delve into XOPP without explaining the story of Golden Century.
XOPP falls under the Golden Century umbrella alongside its sister venues at Crown Sydney and their little hole-in-the-wall eatery at the Exchange Building Food Court.
The original Golden Century was started by Eric and Linda Wong, who built a following of loyal customers over three decades with their modest but reliable original restaurant on Sussex Street.
After word got out about the restaurant, and Sydney’s best-kept secret became Sydney’s worst-kept secret, Golden Century relocated down the road to a larger multi-storey site. Here, the restaurant reigned supreme as one of Sydney’s best late-night institutions, before closing in 2021.
A couple of years before Golden Century on Sussex Street closed, XOPP opened in Darling Square, on the mezzanine floor of the Exchange Building.
It wasn’t the simplest of starts, with the restaurant opening just a few months before COVID hit. However, XOPP has persevered, thanks to Golden Century’s cult following and the direction of Billy Wong, the son of owners Eric and Linda.
What to order
Now that you’re familiar with the story of Golden Century and XOPP, we can get to the important stuff.
The restaurant’s yum cha service runs daily from 12pm until 3pm, offering a colourful array of traditional Cantonese fare.
Billy tells us that the dumplings are all made fresh, “straight from the steam, straight to the table”. You can’t go wrong with the steamed shrimp and chive flavour, with the plump, juicy seafood sealed in a bright green dough.
The steamed scallop, shrimp and pork siu mai was also a standout, with the generous meaty scallop atop the shrimp and pork dumpling sprinkled with fish roe. These also win on size – they’re filling and actually quite difficult to get your chopsticks around (which is a good sign, I promise).
Round out the order and get some crispy prawn toast to balance out the delicate softness of the steamed dumplings. Golden, crunchy and indulgent, they’re a low-fuss classic that can never disappoint in my eyes.
Ok, I know I’ve recommended a lot of prawn dishes, but they’re just so good. My last yum cha rec is the prawn wontons tossed in red chilli oil. The pillowy wontons fight it out with the fiery chilli oil, finding beautiful harmony and making for a seriously satisfying bite.
There are three more dishes that I think should be on your order list. The first is obviously the XO pippies on fried vermicelli. Going to XOPP and not ordering the XO pippies feels sacrilegious.
Coated in their iconic, glossy XO sauce and topped on the chewy, crispy noodles, the famous pippies are packed with wok-fired flavour. It’s no wonder that this is their signature dish: it’s the holy trinity of authentic, distinctive and delicious.
Next is a dish that Billy tells us he could “eat every day and I won’t get sick of it.” It’s the live barramundi, steamed whole with ginger and shallots.
Billy is passionate about the quality of Australian seafood, stating that “It’s a blessing to be able to pair that with Cantonese techniques.”
The quality of Australian seafood is highlighted in his barramundi dish. The fish is cooked perfectly: soft and light and not overcomplicated with clashing flavours. The ginger and shallots give the barramundi flavour but still allow it to be the star of the show.
The final dish I’ll recommend is very different to the barramundi. It’s indulgent, rich and downright gluttonous: live lobster cooked in truffle butter served on a bed of wavy noodles. Definitely not good for the heart but brilliant for the soul, this is a dish that I can’t stop thinking about.
How to get to XOPP
I’m assuming after this glowing review you’ve got a tab open, ready to book your table.
You can find XOPP on the mezzanine floor of the Exchange Building in Darling Square on Little Pier Street. Walk up the curved stairs or head into the lift and press the M button.
You can find out more about XOPP and book your table here.
