We went to see what Tequila Mockingbird’s rebrand is all about and found some big surprises

Paddington’s Tequila Mockingbird took Sydneysiders by surprise last month when it mysteriously closed, but it’s back in the form of tqm, a new South American-inspired restaurant.

It was a closure no one saw coming but then Tequila Mockingbird owners, Atticus Hospitality, announced that it would reopen as tqm, with a new Michelin-rated Venezuelan chef at the helm. The signs of its rebrand were soon evident, as the building’s facade was given a new lick of bright yellow paint. Less than four weeks after it closed, the doors reopened and the transformation was revealed.

We paid a visit to the Paddo mainstay last night to see what’s changed.

READ MORE: Tequila Mockingbird announces transformational rebrand

First impressions

Rounding the corner on to Heeley Street, you can’t miss tqm. It stands like a golden beacon, shining out even on a dark autumn night. The paint has seeped inside too, with almost every wall drenched in yellow. There are some South American-inspired prints on the walls too, but otherwise, the bare bones of Tequila Mockingbird are still there.

Here’s hoping it wasn’t all a load of fuss over a new lick of paint…

We sat down the end in the sheltered courtyard, where the dark wooden tables and chairs have been replaced with lighter alternatives. The hanging foliage and mirrors are still there, creating a beautiful indoor-outdoor feel to the space. It’s brighter and does feel refreshed.

Ed was our server for the night and immediately got down to recommending some drinks, letting us know that the old favourite, The Tequila Mockingbird, is still on the menu. Thank goodness. Some spicy margs pack too much of a punch to even be enjoyable, but the addition of elderflower liqueur and cucumber dims the fire of the jalapeño-infused agave to a subtle burn.

Drinks in hand, we turned our attention to the food menu, where the rebrand is most evident.

What’s on the menu?

José Garcia is the new chef behind the menu and he’s drawn on his Venezuelan roots and Michelin-rated experience to take the restaurant’s Latin American inspirations a step further. Speaking to him at the end of our meal, he shared the influences in his kitchen are making their way into the menu. They have chefs from Peru, England, Italy and China. In the coming months, José shares, they will start to introduce specials that will be take inspiration from these international influences.

They will swap out dishes each month too, refreshing the menu, trialling new flavours and working to seasonality and what diners are loving. So even local Paddos will be able to keep coming back to try new dishes.

The menu is styled to be enjoyed more like tapas, with Ed recommending three to four entrées and one or two mains to share between the two of us. Here’s a run down of what we ordered and what we thought.

Choripan ($17 for one)

This is a lesson in never judge a book by its cover. It’s not the prettiest dish—although the charred branding on the bread is a fun touch—but the filling makes up for appearances. You get one per serving which is fine for two, but something to note for bigger groups.

Traditional choripán comprises of grilled chorizo sausage served in a crusty bread roll and topped with chimichurri sauce. But at tqm, José uses sausagemeat that’s not as heavy (or spicy) as chorizo. Joining it in the flatbread are are coating of mustard and thinly sliced pickles. The crispness of the bread and saltiness of the pickles cut through the meatiness of the sausage a lift the flavour. It’s delicious.

Chicken tostada ($12 for one)

If you’re spice-averse, opt for this entrée. It does what it says on the tin, but in a good way. A fried tortilla is topped with a chicken, avocado and red onion mix that’s light, fresh and exactly what you’d expect. There is a slight tinge of heat coming from the mysterious green sauce on top, but nothing overpowering. It’s just enough.

Burrata, roasted zucchini, cherry tomato, almond and pickled quince vinaigrette ($30)

It’s one of those Instagrammable dishes that seems to be everywhere nowadays, and it felt like a strange option on a distinctly Latin American menu. Oozing burrata with zucchini and cherry tomato, what’s new? The quince vinaigrette, in short. Cutting through the creaminess, it takes you out of Italy but not quite to South America. We’re not sure where it lands, really, but it’s a solid dish all in all. A crowdpleaser.

We asked for it to come nut-free, with the almonds replaced with breadcrumbs for a bit of crunch.

Ceviche taco ($10 each)

One of the few remnants of the Tequila Mockingbird past, these were our favourite of the entrées. Sydney knows how to do seafood but this rivals ceviche I’ve enjoyed in Peru, where it originates. It’s no surprise these survived the rebrand and they were the most ordered dish on the menu. Crisp taco shells are filled with fresh ceviche (though the fish remains a mystery), fruity aji amarillo capsicum and seasoned with fresh lime and just the right amount of coriander (unless you’re one of those who taste soap, then there’s never a good amount). What sets these tacos apart though is the smokiness that comes from charcoal salt. It’s so moorish, we wished there were more than two!

XO prawns, baked rice, lemon aioli ($36)

Moving on to mains, we’d been eyeing up the prawns on the Instagram account long before arriving. It’s a great looking dish as we can see why it’s a bit of a star on their social media. In real life, it’s exactly as it’s described: prawns, rice and aioli. If you’re not a huge fan of prawns, maybe go for something else, as the entire dish tastes of the crustaceans. The lemon slice is needed to lift everything a little as otherwise, it’s a little one dimensional. The prawns themselves are cooked very well though, and are so tender they were almost reminiscent of lobster.

Wagyu beef mbs 6+, grilled seasonal vegetables, demi-glace ($60)

Where do we begin. It’s the most expensive dish on the menu but boy does it deliver. Chargrilled to to perfection and served with still-crunchy carrots and broccolini, the Wagyu beef is a main event. It comes doused in a demi-glace, a rich brown sauce typically used in French cooking, and is smoky, buttery and worth every dollar. If you indulge in this, make sure you order the pave potatoes too.

READ MORE: It’s official: Sydney has 11 of the best steakhouses in the world right now

Pave potatoes ($15 for five)

Not to diminish the skill behind these potatoes, fries have been taken up a notch. Crisp on the outside, soft in the middle and served with romesco, they’re a beautiful side dish. The romesco is topped with a dusting of black olive powder for a subtle crunch.

Dulce de leche flan ($16)

This might be the sweet treat to end all sweet treats. The dulce de leche flan is topped with a solid caramel disk that might crack the most hardened sweet tooth. Cracking through the top is all a part of the performance. Best enjoyed with some of the whipped orange cream it comes with, this is a dessert to be shared.

Pineapple cake ($17)

Alongside the other dessert on the menu—a nutty, chocolate concoction—we think the pineapple cake might be overlooked, but we urge you to give it a try. Light fruity sponge is topped with a slice of pineapple and chopped cubes of smoked pineapple, and served in a pool of white chocolate. You’d expect it to be another overly sweet pudding, but it’s surprisingly savoury. Maybe it’s the smoked pineapple. Or maybe it’s just the comparison with the flan. Either way, the pineapple cake is an unexpected gem that took us most by surprise.

Green chartreuse colada ($24)

This was the other surprise of the night—although the way Ed’s face lit up when we ordered it should have been a sign of things to come. Bacardi Carta Blanca, pineapple, coconut and lime provide the basis but green chartreuse liqueur turns the classic on its head. The herbal concoction is an infusion of 130 different plants, including thyme and lemon balm. The result is a savoury cocktail that tastes a little like basil. And don’t worry, it’s not toxic green, like the name might suggest.

If you visit this weekend, you’ll find high-end Latin American food that draws on its past as Tequila Mockingbird and its present, led by José Garcia. If José’s plans are anything to go by, the future sounds just as exciting.

Our top tip when you visit? Don’t overlook a single thing. There might just be a life-changing star in your midst.

READ MORE: Sydney’s foodies are going wild over this new South Korean bakery

tqm.

Address: 6 Heeley St, Paddington NSW 2021
Opening hours: Tuesday & Wednesday 4:30pm–10pm; Thursday 4:30pm–11pm; Friday & Saturday 12pm–midnight; Sunday 12pm–9:30pm.
Price: Food ranges from $10 to $60. There is a six-course tasting menu for two, for $79 per person. Cocktails range between $26-$26, mocktails are $16-$17, beers $10-$15 and there is an extensive wine and spirit menu.

Find the full menus at tequila-mockingbird.com.au.